The Great Coast Road, a Gorge and no glow worms to speak of.

Despite the lack of west-facing shoreline, we found ourselves a trifle reluctant to leave Westport. Situated at the mouth of the mighty Buller River, which flows down out of the neighbouring southern alps (those peaks would definitely get covered in snow over winter). There's an enormously long main street with pretty much everything in it, while retaining a very small town feel (friendly townsfolk included) - and none of a tourist trap. Gritty and remote enough to be interesting. 

Jen attempted to purchase coffee at a cart near our motel - and startled a fairly earthy, jandled gent unlocking some chained up seating at said cart. After ignoring Jen didn't work, he eventually muttered, "We're not open" as if it should be obvious - it was only 9:30am after all (who wants coffee at that time of day?). She managed to secure a couple of coffees (as well as a lively conversation) from an Espresso Bar a little further up the main street - who were marvelling at payWave, which had just come in. 

We made pretty good time down the Great Coast Road, passing through towns so small that we were out the other side before we learned their names. Once past Greymouth (the main settlement in the region), we began to experience the areas novel approach to merging railway lines and main roads. They seem particularly keen on bisecting roundabouts with railway lines (sans warning lights of course). They do have a sign for motorists saying, "watch out for trains" - so there's that at least.

Nikau Palms

It wasn't too long until we reached the outskirts of Hokitika, where we pulled over to take a look at the Glow worm Dell and have a bite to eat. Given that it was still daylight - the dell didn't really offer up anything of note to be honest (and definitely nothing luminous). We consulted the local iSite (Tourist Information Centre) in Hokitika and worked out Hokitika Gorge was about a 30 minute drive away. It was still too early to check in to our accommodation, so we thought this might be a decent way to pass the time.

Hokitika - not the entirety of the township of course.

There wasn't a direct road to Hokitika Gorge, so we found ourselves winding our way around cow paddocks and villages (all with gorgeous mountain backdrops).

We spotted yet another Weka poking about in the undergrowth near the car park once we reached the Gorge. It was actually fairly curious - and checked us out at length.

There was very clear signage about drones (as you do), but nothing really about sandflies. I noticed the kids starting to slap their legs, which prompted me to look down and saw multiple blood-sucking insects alighting on my own limbs. We beat a hasty retreat to the car (sending the Weka scurrying into the bush) and liberally applied the Tropical Strength Aerogard we'd brought with us. Suitably fortified - we rejoined the walk.

If this photo had sound - you would hear the slapping of legs.

The Swinging Bridge

Once across the suspension bridge (only 6 on it at a time according to the slightly histrionic sign), we were able to get down to the riverbank itself.

Hokitika River

There were vociferous elderly travellers tottering on boulders, as well as seemingly nerveless back-packers standing around in glacial melt waters. Lily was keen on elbowing one of the latter back into the river (they kept getting in her shots).

Josh managed to get down to the waters edge, dunk his hand in to confirm that - yes - it really was quite cold, all the while remaining largely dry (a win!).

We pulled over on one of the backroads on our way back to Hokitika, Lily conversing with a horse who seemed relatively interested in what she had to say. A group of cows a little further along were not so keen to chat.

By the time we got back to town, we were able to check into our place for the night. It was really lovely, plenty of space (motel rooms at 3 kids aren't the friendliest) as well as a backyard for Josh to wander around in.

Not a porcelain doll in sight.

Car finally unpacked, we drove down to Hokitika Beach - apparently well-known for its beach sculptures. With the obligatory tourist shot completed (and Hamish managing to unintentionally photobomb an overzealous instagram wannabe), we wandered down to the beach proper - discovering an assortment of stones for skipping across the water.